Mera Peak Climbing Trek In Nepal

Mountaineering is the most exhilarating and exacting adventure Nepal has to offer. With more than 1300 snow peaks over 6000 meters found in the country, Nepal is the heaven for mountaineering enthusiasts around the world. Let's take an example of Mera Peak climbing for more information regarding this. Mera Peak is 6,461 m high from the sea-level, and is one of the highest trekking peaks of Nepal Himalayas.

Peak climbing itself sounds like an adventure for the lifetime and the mountains with height above 6000 m and below 7000 m are known as Peaks. Normally, Mera Peak climbing can be completed in 13 days starting and ending in Kathmandu. The main advantages of Mera Peak climbing is that climbers can see the mesmerizing view of the whole Everest region from close range.

mera peak climbing in Nepal

Peak Climbing in Nepal

Nepal is considered as the roof of the world and home to the eight out of fourteen top mountains the globe. The mountains draws attention of the climbers around the world with awesome enthusiasm to climb the highest mountains. The world's highest peak, Mount Everest which is 8848 m above sea level, is the most challenging climbing destination to climb once in a lifetime.

It is also a fact that peaks with lower heights and less challenge are also being popular these days. The experience of small peak climbing will surely help the climbers to climb taller mountains like Lhotse, Cho oyu and Everest.

Peak climbing and expedition was officially started in 1949 by Nepal Government for climbers around the world. From that time it has continuously ignited the imagination of mountaineering enthusiasts worldwide. There are different types of peaks such as Mera Peak, Island Peak, Kyajo Ri, Lobuche, Pisang peak, Nayakanga, Tharpu Chuli and Singu Chuli which has witnessed thousands of climbers who have visited in this area or a destination.

There are mountains like Everest with heights of above 8000 m, which are more difficult, challenging, and adventurous to climb. It is also a wise decision to climb lower peaks first to sharpen technical and climbing skills before the first attempt to summit the mountains above 8000 m.

Expedition and peak climbing are so popular in Nepal that it is organized by most of the travel agencies in Nepal. Mountain expeditions includes and takes you to the different parts of the Himalayas to the summit of Mt. Everest, Mt. Makalu, Mt. Dhaulagiri and other famous mountains with a height of more than 7000 m.

Peak climbing includes Island Peak, Mera Peak, Yala Peak and many more peaks with height of 6000-7000 m. The most interesting expeditions and climbing requires considerable effort, strength and guts with a strong intention to reach the summit of the dangerous peaks.

Nepal has always been a very popular destination for peak climbing and expedition. Climbers from Nepal and other countries have successfully scaled and listed their name in the history of expedition and peak climbing in this region. It has also been popular in other parts of the world when the mountain climber porter Tenzing Norgay Sherpa and Sir Edmund Hillary conquered the world's highest peak Mt. Everest on 29th May 1953.

There are different peaks in Nepal and China which can be easily climbed from both sides. Expedition in Nepal is already popular around the world and is the center of attraction of the climbers who come here for climbing the major peaks above 7000 m to 8000 m which are considered as extremely challenging.

Peak Climbing vs Expedition

Mountains with height above 7000 meter is said to be a big mountain and climbing those giant mountains is labeled as mountain expedition. You need to have a different level of climbing experience for the expedition. Climbers should already have successfully been on the top of any mountain with a minimum height of 6000 m. To avoid the problem that may arise in the journey climbers should be well prepared for the worst weather conditions in the mountains.

A special team is needed to do expedition in Nepal with the ability to do everything to reach the top of the mountain. For Peak climbing in Nepal travelers need to do some training to reach the summit of the peaks of height within 6000-7000 m. This activity is less challenging and has a small amount of risk compared to Expedition. A normal guide can prepare the peak climbing itinerary with a little bit of experience.

The peak climbing cost is very low as compared to the mountain expedition. Peak climbing may cost around 2000-3500 USD whereas a single expedition will cost around 25000-40000 USD.

Climbing high altitude mountains in the Himalayas is expensive. The region is remote, inhospitable, and all supplies have to be ported in manually or by yak to most of the mountains. Due to the low-oxygen environment and requirement to acclimatize slowly, expeditions last for more than a month.

Where guides or Sherpas are assisting a climber, their services have to be engaged and paid for, for several weeks. Any shortcuts in terms of equipment or team experience will likely result in life changing injuries or worse. An Everest climber will require two extra oxygen tanks to accommodate the additional altitude and time in the death-zone.

If assisted by a Sherpa, which is the norm, the Sherpa will also need two extra tanks. The extra four oxygen tanks will have to be transported by plane to Lukla, by yak to Base Camp, and then most likely by a Sherpa to about 8,400 m. If there is a guide, which is the norm, the cost of their extra two tanks and transport to 8,400m will have to be split among the climbers.

Approximately 2,500 m of climbing rope must be purchased for Everest, and then ported up to 8,500m. From there, a team of Sherpas will break trail and secure the rope along a route over rock, ice, and snow, deep in the death zone to the summit. This will take a full day of effort and risk. Only the most experienced climbers (expensive) can undertake this task, as there is no safety rope to clip onto.

It is traditional alpine-style climbing. Should any of their anchor points be less than reliable, the results with be catastrophic the following week when multiple climbers are clipped in at the same time. All of the rope fixing team requires oxygen tanks. Note that this cost would be shared among all climbers on the mountain, but it gives an example of how all the expenses mount up.

The death-zone is exponentially dangerous. Climbing from 8,000m to 8,100m increases the danger for all concerned and requires additional back-up plans. However, moving from 8,500m to 8,600m is a whole new world of danger. The pace of progress drops significantly, equipment is pushed to the limit, cognitive function falters, and even experienced climbers and Sherpas who’ve climbed higher on previous expeditions might have to turn back.

And the temperature drops still further to life-threatening levels. Additional back up resources and plans are needed, all of which are expensive. Moving above 8,700m pushes all concerned into a world of extreme danger. Guides and Sherpas must be compensated accordingly, and emergency stashes of oxygen tanks, regulators, first aid kits, dexamethasone injections etc. organised by the team leader. Again, all of this costs money.

The higher a peak, the longer the calm weather window required to get to the summit and back down to safety. As a result, higher expeditions last longer, as climbers wait out potential storms at lower camps. Everest needs a relatively calm five days in a row to allow a summit push.
Kalyan Panja