One of the things I like to do when I travel is to try the local gastronomy. And of course, if you travel on a budget you have to forget the luxury restaurants of the category. This does not mean that you will have to eat sandwiches every day, or that you will eat poorly and less healthy food. So, are you ready to go on a journey in taste?
In Indian street food, the spices are the heart of the food. They provide a unique color and flavor, and that's why each cook makes his own secret spice mix, and this is how the magic in each dish is produced. Among the famous paratha places in Delhi, there is Moolchand Paranthe Wala and Babu Ram Paranthe Wala. Moolchand ke parathe is very popular among locals.
There are other popular haunts like Lala Babu Chaat Bhandar, Karim's, Kuremal Mohanlal Kulfi wale, Jung Bahadur Kachori Wala to Moti Mahal in Daryaganj, Khemchand Daulat ki Chaat, Paranthe Wali Gali, Old Famous Jalebi Wala, Natraj Dahi Bhalle Wala, Kake Di Hatti and Giani's di Hatti.
But my goal is the Chandni Chowk area, a less touristy chaotic market frequented almost exclusively by locals. Beyond the food havens Chandni has the world of spices, perfumes and bright colours with fruit and vegetable markets, and various shops with items ranging from jewellery to toys to souvenirs to cheap clothing and range of electronic gadgets.
I bet you are already hungry, so let's go to what you came for and get ready to make your mouth water.
It is important that you do not have prejudices as the street food in Delhi is delicious but sometimes the queue in some of the popular shops especially in evening hours may keep you busy for more than an hour and especially if you have little time it may not be worth it and so if you have less time, try to arrive around afternoon, armed with patience.
There are over hundred food stalls, each with different specialties ranging from fried specialties to famous sweets of Delhi and desserts. I take a few minutes to cross the Chandni Chowk photography market and wander the stalls, admiring the huge variety. As a single dish rarely costs more than 10 or 20 rupees, be sure to fill your pockets with loose change and follow me in this gastronomic tour with lots of surprises!
1. Jung Bahadur Kachori Wala
One of the oldest and best shop to have Kachori with Aloo ki Sabji. Kachori served here are dunked in aloo ki sabji with a dash of khatta meetha chutney from above. The price of two kachori with Aloo ki Sabji is Rs.35/- Do try it. You will love it. Highly recommended. I begin with the things to do in Chandni Chowk by munching the pakoras, chickpea flour fritters with spices and spinach, which are as essential as the samosas, the potato dumplings. Very typical were also the chili pakoras battered in chickpea flour.
2. Shyam Sweets
When in Delhi, breakfast at Shyam Sweets is always a good idea. The legendary shop, Shyam Sweets in Chawri Bazar was established in 1920. The shop is famous for nagori halwa, indian traditional sweets, kachori and bedmi puri. A most visited place for breakfast in Delhi. Highly recommended. Visit it in the early morning hours, a good culinary experience is most guaranteed.
Aloo Puri and Chhole with Nagori Halwa is one of the famous breakfast among Delhilites. The Aloo ki Sabji at this place is the best that I ever had. You can also try stuffed Matar Kachori with Aloo ki Sabji at this place. It is also very famous and tasty.
3. Kake Di Hatti
Kake Di Hatti is a place where you can find biggest Naan in Delhi. The naan is served with dal makhani, butter paneer masala, onion and green chillies.
4. Pakwan, Jama Masjid
Sheermal Roti is a saffron-flavored traditional flatbread from Greater Iran. In India, it is famous in Old Bhopal, Lucknow, Hyderabad and Jama Masjid area in Delhi. Poeple enjoy the authentic taste of it.
5. Khan Omelette Corner
The Khan Omlet Corner in Delhi is one of the best place for all egg lovers. One should not miss this cheese omlette made with Amul butter and different masala. The Cheese Masala Omlette is served with finely chopped green chillies, coriander leaves and chat masala. The price of one Cheese Omlette here is 70 INR but do try it. You will love it. Highly recommended.
6. Aslam Chicken
This is called the real butter chicken. Aslam Chicken puts full bar of Amul butter in just one full chicken. It taste best when eaten with rumali roti. If you are still not very familiar with the flavors of Chandni Chowk, let me tell you in my blog the anecdotes of the street food available here, of what is known as Mughlai food that goes beyond the jalebi and the samosa.
As evening dawns I tread to the Mughlai havens near Jama Masjid. Are you wondering what is the famous dish of Delhi? I particularly like the chicken tikka masala, the famous dish of Delhi immersed in a creamy sauce of red-orange flavored spices and for its intense flavor and soft fleshy texture. Chicken tikka masala is now considered British because it was invented in Britain by a Brit.
The chunks of boneless chicken marinated with a secret combination of spices and yogurt are roasted and cooked in a typical tandoori oven. It is seasoned with coconut milk or yogurt or cream, tomatoes and spices, and garam masala precisely. The result is a lovely smoky flavor.
The dish is simple and the base is the tandoori chicken, the famous dish in Delhi. As regards the origins of chicken tikka masala the oldest claim is linked to the Mughal emperors as early creators of the dish. There is not a single recipe to prepare this delicious dish, which depends on the thickness of the sauce and also the spices used. Even if you've never tasted, surely you have noticed at least once on an Indian restaurant menu.
I win over a space and enjoy the chicken tikka with chur chur naan, a flatbread topped with cheese, garlic and onions. I also order a good portion of biryani, which absorbs and amplifies all the aromas in this dish. If I speak of the food that I miss the most, it must be the biryani. The way the biryani is cooked here is different from how others cook.
And here’s a little secret. After a lot of cajoling and breaking the ice through the name of a distant common friend, the cook allowed me in his den (aka kitchen) one Sunday. I will try to explain how it's done, but I think sour plums, yogurt, and pomegranate is what made it a good dish.
I saw him focused on the recipe, and it took three or four hours. He prepared the rice with milk according to his own recipe. Then he would put pistachios on top of the dish. I was very happy because this was a special recipe.
7. Abdul Ghani Qureshi Kabab
Another of the specialties that they serve only during the night here in Chandni Chowk are the Kebab with one of the most liked being the Nargisi Kebab, made with marinated lamb meat in yogurt for 48 hours and stuffed with eggs. The meat chunks are inserted in a stick and roasted inside the tandoori.
They also prepare very tender, flavourful and succulent Seekh Kebabs and wrap them with a rather thin and smooth Naan along with the salad and sauces, something that sounds pretty standard, however, the taste was quite unique and I can easily eat five or more of these wraps. The Seekh Kebabs at this place will surprise you with the uniqueness and their taste. This shop specializes in crunchy kebabs served with onions, and the best way to eat is just biting the kebabs without rumali roti and experience the juiciness in your mouth.
8. Haji Mohd. Hussain Fried Chicken
One of the best place to eat fried chicken in Delhi. The fried chicken is served with onion salad, lemon and green chutney. The Haji Mohammad Hussain Fried Chicken shop is a 45 years old shop in Jama Masjid area in Delhi. The owner of the shop Haji Mohammad Hussain is 76 years old at present. It is said that the taste of fried chicken at this shop is similar to KFC. Do try it, you will love it.
9. Karim's
Karim's at Jama Masjid is one of the oldest hotel for Shahi dishes of Mughals. The place offers best Mutton Korma in Delhi. The gravy of Mutton Korma is made of roughly ground spices (black pepper, cardamom and chilly) which has a wonderful taste and mouthfeel. It is best eaten with tandoori roti and rumali roti. At Karim's, you can also try Seekh Kebabs, Biryani, Chicken Korma, Mutton Chaap, Mutton Jahangiri, Chicken Jahangiri, Kheer etc. Don't miss out the kheer at Karim's. It's very amazing and refreshing. You can have kheer after Mutton Korma or Chicken Korma.
10. Gianis Di Hatti
The Rabri Falooda at Gianis Di Hatti is one of the best and most famous rabri falooda shop in Delhi. One should definitely try this when you are in Old Delhi area. The price per glass rabri falooda is 80 INR. You will find it costlier than other falooda but it is totally worth it's price.
11. Nawab Qureshi Watermelon Shakes
Every summer beat the heat with the healthier and refreshing glass of mohabbat ka sharbat. The Rooh Afza sharbat is prepared with milk, roohafza syrup and watermelon. A block of ice is added to the container to make the sharbat to drink it cool. The price per glass is 20 INR for small and 30 INR for large.
12. Cool Point, Jama Masjid
The Cool Point, ultimate sweet shop serves Shahi Tukda in a clay pot. Shahi Tukda is basically a flavored milk which is creamier, thicker and tasty as it reaches the bottom. It is one of the best thing when you are tired of eating the chicken and want a creamier taste for your mouth.
To end our eventful hot gastronomic night on a sweet note, we roam through some of the galis, where in the footpaths they then sell excellent fresh juices and sweets, such as lemon soda with generous amounts of ice and we end the night with the most renowned Gajar Ka Halwa, the famous sweet dish of delhi, in one of the carts! It has a very pleasant flavor provided it is ordered with the expectation of a soft sweet cake.
13. Paranthe Wali Gali
Chandni Chowk at night is a feast of colors, smells and tastes that you should not miss. The life of old Delhi is in those narrow streets you'll dig in. Those old buildups, that fragrance of existent ideas, temples, mosques and everything! Deeper you go, farther you explore and best part is they never seem to end! It is advised to walk around the streets. Make sure you're having safety equipments and don't entertain strangers much. A few prominent ones like paranthe wali gali must not be missed.
